A futile attempt to wake-up at 4am for a sunrise hike...

Despite initial failure, we managed to make a great day out of our usual transportation troubles. It all began with a struggle of opening my eyes, yet once open, I saw the light and started the day out on the right foot. A random call from Gretchen proved yet again how small this island really is, and though she had obviously been, she couldn't even give a ball-park figure for an ETA to the summit(her family like to wander). Turns out my speed-demon tendencies are a communicable disease and we peaked about 15 minutes after passing the pony rides.

With a GS Mart breakfast in our stomachs we walked briskly to the bus stop. Where we met Mr. Persistent Taxi Driver... again. You see, last night we tried to get to Ilchubong via Express Bus, but when he asked where we were going, he tried to wring us dry of 30,000 won. We wanted the bus. But all attempts to relay that information got him so worked up I thought the man would kidnap us and teach us a lesson, for how DARE we get into a taxi and ask to go to the Bus Station?
Turns out the man was just trying to explain how we can take a special taxi for 5,000 each. But these Krazy Koreans and their raised voices make you wonder what button you pushed. I just wish they would slow down rather than speed up when we tell them we DO NOT SPEAK KOREAN.

So again, a lurking taxi attempted a quick offering of his services and usurping of the bus' power. Our ability to defend our right as mass transit loyals was respected, but not without the humiliation of being told we were on the wrong side of the street.


Our language skills proved worthy again and we boarded a bus to see some of the largest and longest cave network in the world. It is a system called the 'lava tubes' where an ancient myth required the sacrificing of a virgin to the giant snake that inhabited the caves. They stopped wasting precious girls around the 14th century when a new ruler of the island convinced them that he slaughtered the slithering beast.

Next stop: Maze park. Meh, expectations exceeded the well designed maze. Honestly people, when you design a maze, do not put arrows that direct people to the end. That ruins all the fun.

We decided that we must seek out the vague descriptions of 'Cafe 1263' described in Lonely Planet. We figured this was for the determined adventurer, so we walked the 6km to the town where it was supposedly located. Communication was weak in finding this place, but the old man that had more metal in his mouth than a '55 Caddy seemed like a good bet since he obviously wanted to talk to us(Lauryn: Is that man 'yogi-yo'-ing us?). I know why he kept telling me I was tall, but I don't understand why he kept asking me about Japan? I tried to ask about the Cafe, but he just wanted to repeat whatever he was saying about the town of Seogwipo.

Finally, when all hope is lost and you're looking for the next bus stop, you will find what you're looking for. I professor-type man, who speaks some English, serves a mean cup of drip coffee, and even offers to find you a ride for free to Jeju-si is what you can expect at Cafe 1263. Thank you Lonely Planet for not crushing dreams.

Finally, we made it to Gogi, where we had 'sam gyup sal' and the greatest hybridization of American overconsumption of cheese and Korean overconsumption of rice... Thank you Kate for informing the masses about Cheesy Rice existence in Jeju.